Mitsubishi Ecodan Error Codes
Basic homeowner checks only. Never remove covers or work on electrics/refrigerant – contact a qualified F-Gas engineer or your installer for anything beyond visual checks and controller resets.
Critical – risk of damage / immediate shutdown High – system likely off, needs attention Medium – limited operation / nuisance fault Low – minor / advisory
Low-pressure safety has operated. Often linked to refrigerant shortage, closed service valves or restrictions on the refrigerant side.
  • Look for obvious oil stains on external pipework that could indicate a leak.
  • Note any unusual noises from the outdoor unit.
  • Switch the system off and do not repeatedly reset.
  • Contact an F-Gas engineer – refrigerant checks must be done professionally.
High-pressure safety has activated or its circuit is faulty. Often linked to poor water flow, blocked strainers or restricted airflow.
  • Check all isolation valves on the heating side are open.
  • Check strainers/filters if accessible (near indoor unit) and note if dirty.
  • Ensure outdoor unit has clear airflow (no leaves, covers, obstructions).
  • After obvious issues are cleared, you may reset once.
  • If F5 returns, stop resetting and call an engineer – do not bypass safeties.
The unit is seeing an impossible combination of high and low pressure switch states, usually due to wiring or board faults, occasionally severe system issues.
  • No safe internal checks – just note if this appeared during heating or DHW.
  • Turn the system off and contact your installer/F-Gas engineer.
  • They will check pressure switch wiring, continuity and the PCB.
The controller has detected incorrect wiring between the FTC and the heat pump, commonly on S1/S2/S3 or similar control terminals.
  • Think back to any recent work: new controls, PV diverter, Wi-Fi stat, etc.
  • Do not open covers or touch internal wiring.
  • Contact the original installer or a competent heat pump electrician.
  • Advise them of EA/EB and any recent wiring changes.
The heat pump fails its start-up checks. Could be due to sensor faults, communication issues, incorrect dip-switches or wiring.
  • Note whether this happens on heating, DHW or both.
  • Confirm mains supply is not tripping and no other error appears first.
  • Record the code and conditions and contact your installer.
  • Commissioning checks (dip-switches, addresses, wiring) are installer-only.
A communication transmit error has been detected between FTC and other boards or controllers.
  • Check for obvious damage to visible control cables (chewed, pinched).
  • If the controller is remote wired, ensure it hasn’t been knocked or flooded.
  • Try a power cycle (off at isolator for 5 minutes, then back on).
  • If the error reappears, contact your installer – they’ll check comms wiring and boards.
The main or remote controller is reporting an internal fault or cannot operate correctly.
  • Check for visible water ingress or condensation on the controller.
  • Confirm that any recently fitted controls are correctly wired (by installer).
  • Do not continue if you smell burning or see scorching – isolate power and call an engineer.
  • In most cases the controller or wiring will need professional diagnosis/replacement.
Communication from another board/controller is not being received correctly.
  • Check that any external controls (stats, timers) are powered and functioning.
  • Check isolators/fused spurs feeding the cylinder/hydrobox are switched on.
  • Power cycle once. If E4/E5 returns, an installer must check control wiring & boards.
Communication between indoor (FTC/cylinder/hydrobox) and outdoor unit has failed or is unstable.
  • Check all relevant isolators are on (outdoor unit and indoor unit supplies).
  • Look for visible cable damage between indoor and outdoor (chewed, crushed).
  • Try one power reset to both indoor and outdoor supplies.
  • If the fault comes back, an engineer must test the comms cable and boards.
A miscellaneous error the controller cannot categorise, often due to electrical noise or a transient glitch.
  • Note if anything else has recently been installed (EV charger, PV inverter, etc.).
  • Check for repeated nuisance tripping of other circuits in the house.
  • Reset once. If EF appears frequently, ask an electrician/installer to check supply quality and earthing.
The outdoor main board and inverter board are not communicating properly.
  • No safe internal checks – boards and connectors are behind covers.
  • Record the fault and conditions, then contact an F-Gas/approved Mitsubishi engineer.
Similar to F5: discharge pressure is too high. Very often caused by poor water flow or blocked heat exchanger / strainers.
  • Ensure radiators/UFH zones are open and calling for heat.
  • Check for blocked strainers/filters if they have homeowner-accessible isolation valves.
  • Clear any debris/obstructions around the outdoor coil.
  • Reset once after obvious issues are cleared.
  • If U1 returns, stop using the system and call an engineer – ongoing high-pressure operation risks damage.
The compressor is running too hot. Causes include low airflow, incorrect refrigerant charge or heavy load at low ambient.
  • Check outdoor coil for dirt, leaves, snow or ice; keep clear around intake/exhaust.
  • Note any abnormal noise or vibration from the outdoor unit.
  • Do not attempt any refrigerant work.
  • Log conditions (outside temp, mode, run time) and call an F-Gas engineer.
The discharge temperature sensor/thermistor is open, shorted or outside its expected range.
  • No internal checks – sensor is in the outdoor unit.
  • Contact your installer; they will test/replace the sensor or wiring.
One or more temperature sensors are disconnected or shorted.
  • If you can see external sensor leads (e.g. outdoor air) check they’re not physically damaged.
  • Report to your installer – they will test resistance and replace the faulty thermistor.
The inverter electronics are overheating – possibly due to blocked airflow, high load or internal faults.
  • Ensure outdoor unit airflow is not obstructed.
  • If U5 recurs, stop using the system and call an engineer – continued use risks PCB damage.
The compressor is drawing excessive current, often due to mechanical or electrical faults.
  • No user checks – this is an electrical/refrigerant issue.
  • Turn off at the isolator and call an F-Gas / refrigeration engineer.
The outdoor fan is not starting or its feedback is abnormal.
  • Look (safely) to see if the fan is spinning when the unit is running.
  • Check for obstructions (ice, debris) preventing fan rotation.
  • Do not poke the fan blades; remove loose debris only if clearly safe.
  • If U8 persists, an engineer must test/replace the fan motor or PCB.
The supply voltage is outside the acceptable band.
  • See if other appliances are also misbehaving or lights dimming/flickering.
  • Contact your electrician or DNO if you suspect a supply issue.
  • If U9 is intermittent, an electrician should check connections, fuses and earth.
A component has exceeded its safe temperature limit (often electrical parts).
  • If you smell burning or see scorch marks, isolate power immediately.
  • Do not reset and continue use; call an engineer urgently.
The compressor is drawing excessive current or is mechanically locked.
  • No safe DIY checks – this is an internal compressor/inverter fault.
  • Switch the unit off and call an F-Gas engineer.
The unit detects current outside normal operating range – can be supply, compressor or inverter related.
  • Note if other devices trip when the heat pump starts.
  • Have an electrician/engineer check supply, wiring and the outdoor unit.
A monitored circuit is open when it should be closed – usually broken wiring or a failed component.
  • Check visible cables for obvious physical damage only.
  • Report UL to your installer; they’ll trace and repair the open circuit.
Similar to U6/UH – excessive current detected in a protected circuit.
  • No user checks; this is a job for an electrician/engineer.
  • Isolate the unit and arrange professional diagnosis.
The main flow temperature sensor (thermistor) is reading incorrectly, open or shorted.
  • Check if the controller is showing unrealistic flow temperatures (e.g. –50°C).
  • Sensors are inexpensive; ask your installer to test/replace the P1 thermistor.
Water side of the plate heat exchanger is too hot, usually due to low water flow or air in the system.
  • Check system pressure on the gauge (installer will have given a normal range).
  • Bleed accessible radiators if you’re comfortable and they’re gurgling/airbound.
  • If P6 returns, the system needs a proper flow/air/strainer check by an engineer.
The controller isn’t seeing a normal temperature difference across the plate heat exchanger – could be a pump, flow or refrigerant-side issue.
  • Make sure there is a genuine demand (heating/DHW calling) when P8 appears.
  • Listen to the circulating pump – note if unusually noisy or silent.
  • Reset once; if the code returns, call your installer to check pump performance and refrigerant circuit.
A specific sensor (TH5 – model dependent) is reporting invalid values or is disconnected.
  • No user intervention required apart from noting when it occurs.
  • Provide the code and model number to your engineer so they can locate and check TH5.
The inlet/return water temperature sensor is out of range or behaving unexpectedly.
  • Check that heating/DHW has been running long enough for stable readings.
  • Note any obviously incorrect temperature displayed for return/inlet water.
  • Ask your installer to test and, if needed, replace the inlet thermistor or wiring.
No error codes match your search. Try a different code (e.g. U1, P6) or keyword.